Rosie still has not confirmed yesterdays stop over location but I do believe it was in New Jersey, sure narrows it down abit….The Operator drove for about 40 mins and we entered Lambertville, a lovely town built on the Delaware River, directly opposite,on the other bank is the sister town of New Hope.
They are certainly two beautiful towns, once again quaint old gingerbread villas line the streets reminiscent of old world English but with a wooden colonial twist. Rosie would have loved to wander the shops but it was Sunday, nothing was open, which was refreshing to see, and Rosie and The Operator were keen to get in Pennsylvanian Amish Country for a nosey around.
Rosie had read that the Delaware canal ran alongside the river, apparently donkeys now pull tourists up the tow path on boats as it is no longer commercially used….this morning in the golden light it looked like a manky drainage channel. Rosie must have got that wrong….The Operator however with his instinctive man tracking skills said he could see donkey hoof marks on the towpath….hhmmmm, guess they must turn on the tap and fill the canal when they want to use it…..
Pushing into Pennsylvania fields and crops started appearing, it all looked beautiful in the morning light, the sky was blue and it was going to be a cracking day! The churches in these parts have good patronage as the carparks were all full and people were out on the streets of the small towns all dressed in their Sunday best.
We were heading for Lancaster, this county is the main hub of the Amish community and our Navman took us to the door of the Visitor Information centre. Outside in the carpark is an Amish buggy, you would not believe how small and fragile they are, you are certainly squeezed like a sardine into one of these. Armed with maps of the rural area and a warning to be aware of carriages on the road we pushed off to explore the countryside.
Only Rosie and The Operator would arrive in Amish country on a Sunday. No Amish carry ons today, it is a holy day and they are all at church or getting ready for Sunday lunch. So what now? No Farmers Markets are open, no freshly brewed Amish apple cider, beautiful quilts or straw hats to buy. We cruised the country side looking at the farms, no Amish live in towns, they all have farm steadings and are self sufficient or rely on trade with their neighbours. There properties all have a large barn, plenty of out buildings, huge silos and large houses.
The farms were pretty close together and the Operator reckoned that the holding would be about 100 acres each or so. Each farm had approximately 30 – 50 cows, living the simple life means they are all milked by hand and each house had a huge kitchen garden in the back yard.
The fields were still full of dry yellow corn waiting to be harvested and there were fields of pumpkins and tomatoes as well. The tobacco crop which is the biggest cash crop of the Amish….even though they do not smoke was already picked and hanging drying in the barn. They grow a broad leaf tobacco which is used for rolling.
Nearly all of the farm houses had a stall at the front gate with an honesty box attached, non were open of course but the hand painted signs were there ready for Monday selling anything from home made jam, vegetable soup to cut flowers, eggs and vegetables.
The Operator was chaffing at the bit, we had been driving around the back roads of Bird in Hand and Intercourse for awhile and had not seen one Amish! There was plenty of evidence of their existence, the sides of the road had horse shit all over them! Also around the homesteads we had seen plenty of untethered buggies parked in the front yard just like you would a car, horses roamed out in the field.
Next Minuet, plodding along the road comes an old bearded man wearing a straw hat with his wife next to him in a buttoned to the neck dress and a cloth cap, squeezed into the wee buggy. The Operator parked on the side of the road and Rosie was poised with her camera to take a photo….well Rosie didnt need to be poised….the bloody horse was that slow she could have cleaned the car first. Snap snap Rosie took a few pics….as they passed Rosie felt abit guilty and disrespectful…both of the old couple were holding their hands up over their faces to hide them. The Amish believe that by having an image taken of them it steals their soul, so by covering their face it protects them. The Operator wasnt too fussed, if we saw one we will see another, the hunt was on.
Oh yes, the Amish traffic jam, I wonder what it would be like when they all come to town, the roads are really narrow and only the main road has a kind of ‘buggy lane’. The buggy’s also didnt seem to have any number plates….but they did have reflectors and lights.
Amish lunch break must have been over, dads were out in their driveway in long shirts, pants and braces washing and brushing the horses, as a world away we clean our car on a Sunday afternoon. These two lads were heading out up the road on giant wheeled scooters. Rosie and The Operator were heading for a Kissing Bridge.
Lancaster County has many covered bridges, locally they are called Kissing Bridges. An unmarried Amish couple cannot go courting in a covered wagon, it must be an open one, so by driving into a covered bridge it gives you the opportunity to sneak a peck unseen. This is the Hunseckers Mill Bridge, it was built in 1848 and is the longest span covered bridge in the county at 180 feet. It was rebuilt in 1973 after being lifted off its abutments and washed down stream due to the rising water from Hurricane Agnes.
We left this beautiful setting and hit the highway to Gettysburg Pennsylvania. It was quite surreal one minute we were in rural farmland with the strong smell of cow crap everywhere and crickets chirping from the grass and bushes and then just like that we drove up a ramp and were back on the interstate, like it had never existed.
After leaving Lancaster we drove for about 40 mins to Gettysburg, we did not explore the township but headed straight for the Gettysburg National Military Park. This is a visitor information centre and museum, it is newly built and houses modern comprehensive displays and artifacts from the battle as well as gives a movie presentation on the events which is narrated by Morgan Freeman. For our admission we also have access to the the amazing Gettysburg Cyclorama and can do a self drive tour of the battlefield if we were so inclined.
Rosie and The Operator knew nothing about the Battle of Gettysburg, one of the Civil Wars most bloody and decisive battles, and I am not sure if I was that interested….until we saw the video presentation. In a nutshell, Honest Abe Lincoln was President, a southerner by birth he was wanting to abolish slavery in the south and make all men free in America. Northern states had abolished slavery a few years back and the government campaign was fierce for the south to do the same….all the wealth of the south however depended on slavery to harvest their crops and pick their cotton, they were totally against the notion and wanted to break away from the government and have their own Independence. North (Unionists) and South (Confederates) went to war, no one was untouched by it, in some cases it was brother against brother and the country was impoverished by it. The South, led by General Lee was looking to move north and attack Washington, they had an army of 70,000 and used the cover of the Blue Ridge Mountains to sneak into Pennsylvania. By chance The Northern troops led by General Mead were on location nearby and the two armies touched by chance at Gettysburg, the North only had 3000 men positioned there and were terribly outnumbered when the first battle started on July 1st 1863.
The Unionist army by a miracle held the Confederates at bay while they advanced, reinforcements were called and by the 3 and last day of the battle they were pretty evenly matched. Due to a couple of miscommunicated battle plans by the south, the north was able to push through and for the first time force the Confederates into retreat, the casualties were enormous, by the end of the day 51,000 men were dead, wounded or missing presumed dead. This cannon looks out over one of the battlefields and gives an idea of the terrain. General Lee crippled by such heavy casualty’s begins to withdraw and his army turns for Virginia. This victory was the turning point for the North and the Civil War as this was the closest the South ever got to toppling the Capital.
Just remember that when the fighting was over after 3 days, the battlefield had extended to include the town of Gettysburg. The armies moved out and left tens of thousands dead or dying in the towns back yard……what to do, the towns people tried there best to bury the dead but it was overwhelming, Townsfolk petitioned Lincoln and 3 months after the battle on 3rd of November 1863 he came to Gettysburg to take part in the dedication ceremony for the new Soldiers National Cemetery, the Unionists were reburied and the bodies of the Confederates were sent home. On this date is when Lincoln gave one of the the most famous speeches in history, The Gettysburg Address.
The picture above is The “Gettysburg Cyclorama” and was a very popular form of entertainment in the late 1800’s, both in America and Europe. These massive oil-on-canvas paintings were displayed in special auditoriums and enhanced with landscaped foregrounds sometimes featuring trees, grasses, fences and even life-sized figures. The result was a three-dimensional effect that surrounded the viewers who stood on a central platform, literally placing them in the centre of the great historic scene. The Gettysburg Cyclorama is 359 feet long, 27 feet high and weighs an estimated 3 tons it was painted in 1889 and presented in auditorium’s around the country. It is incredible! The light and sound show that goes with it is amazing…..once again, no photos aloud…..but Rosies finger slipped on the camera…..
The National Cemetary instigated by Lincoln is a poignant reflective place like all of the other cemeteries we have seen so far. Every small square of marble measures 200x200mm and are numbered if they knew the name of the soldier interred which is then recorded in the cemetery logs…..these small squares stretch as far as the eye can see.
Look what was sitting on one of the monuments…the Operator reckons she was looking for mice….she was certainly scoping the grass, she was huge with shaggy feathery legs and bright beady eyes, a real beauty. We were at the end of our tour….you could get an audio tour and drive through the battlefields, or you could join a bus tour or even have a guide narrate the story to you personally in your own car…we are not that into it…plenty were, I tell you. A few debates were happening over the big battle plans on the wall that depicted army movements on the day, there are alot of redneck buffs here. Every month the battle is recreated with soldiers dressed in period garb….pass on that one…
The rain was just starting so we headed down the road to Frederick to stay the night. Tomorrow is a nice light driving day. We are off to visit the capitol of Maryland and then DC here comes Rosie and The Operator.
Rosie is a Middle Aged Kiwi who is about to embark on a twelve month adventure of a lifetime, travelling The World with her trusty, loyal sidekick The Operator. In search of adventure, culture, new taste experiences and world wide 'happy hours', Rosie's journals chronicle their travels and experiences.
Rosie had a lightbulb moment. Within that flash of clarity came the realisation that time was spinning out of control and passing her by. So, armed with the confidence, means, ability and a new found passion for life, Rosie and her trusty, loyal sidekick The Operator have devised THE PLAN.
ROSIE – Continually travels The World for the next 12 months.
THE OPERATOR – Works his 28 day roster and meets Rosie somewhere in The World to explore the area together for his 28 days off. Repeat x6.
ROSIE – Will then stay in one spot of the country they have been exploring for 28 days of local immersion whilst The Operator returns to work.
THE OPERATOR – Certainly has the shorter end of the stick xxx
Join me as I journal my middle aged musings on our day to day travels, culture, food and the quest for the ultimate world wide happy hour.