Cape Cod is stunning, it is the beach holiday park for New Englanders and it is a true get away if you live in one of the busy cities outside the Cape. As Rosie has said, as soon as you set foot on the sandy spit that is Cape Code, time winds back and gets slower. No one is in a hurry here, the sky and sea are blue, the houses are grey a keen breeze ruffles your hair.
The coves and harbours are full of expensive sailing and motorboats, Rosie thinks you can tell a local by the leathery brown tanned wind blasted skin, everyone in this neck of the woods are sailors of some kind. People sit fishing off piers or just pulling up in their trucks and looking out to sea.
From our overnight stay in Sandwich we drove down to Hyannis and along to Chatham, alot of the towns we passed are directly on the main road, the fronts of the shops only with a footpath width to the road, there is a bench seat in front of every shop and a couple of old timers seem to be sitting on nearly every one having a chin wag. Did the towns seen a little jaded or was it simply the faded monotone grey colouring of everything made it look a little sad…..maybe it just wasnt ‘the season’ as everyone refers too anymore and most of the inhabitants had packed up and gone home.
Chatham is the most genteel town on the Cape and seemed very upmarket with large and fine houses gracing the waterfront. There is a bylaw for sameness in this area, all of the houses whether they be new or old must be in the Cod style and of a limited colour palette, the letter boxes must be the same and mounted on the same style of post, no one is out of the ordinary or different here. There is alot of retirees and middle aged people living here and believe me, they have the ‘Cod’ look too. Longish, tucked behind the ear grey hair is in vogue with pearls and twin sets accompanying. They were all middle – high class white Americans here, not a negro in site!
Most of the houses are built inland from the sea or around harbours rather than on the seafront, Chatham was an exception. The white sand was so fine it coats the lovely lawn frontages and starts trailing up the side roads that lead to the water.
The Cape is surrounded by 404 miles of sandy beach, there is not a rocky outcrop in sight. Every town and some has its own light house, there are 12 in total on The Cape with 6 still working, all warning ships of the danger of the sand bars close at hand. We followed the Old Kings Highway on Route 6A, it was the scenic highway and it did not disappoint.
This is the windswept beach directly across from (the above) Chatham lighthouse. Rosie and The Operator were musing about cranberries, yes cranberries….will come to that later, when two guys came up and asked where we were from. The had each married a NZer, sisters in fact, they lived the summer on the Cape and wintered in Florida, really nice chaps who were out for their morning bike ride. They told us about how this was a deep sea channel and asked if we could see the seals bobbing in the water, in the summer when the sea was warm the area was inundated with great white sharks who fed on the seals. We talked about this and that and then said we were off to lunch, they asked where? We said we were heading to The Brewster Fish House……they said good choice, nice to have an endorsement from a local! The chap said we must order Fried Oysters, Fried Scallops and Sweet Potato Fries…..
…..so we did, with the addition of Fresh Clam Chowder…..How could we not have this while in Cape Cod. It was the most delicious richest tasting soup I have ever had, they give you a little packet of oyster flavoured crackers (croutons) to go with it, yummmmmm.
OK, you Kiwis are going to feel a little underwhelmed looking at this….I certainly was…a little, until I tasted it and was told that everything came off the fishing boats that morning. It was delicious! The sweet potato fries were so much better that our kumara chips…even though essentially thats what they were as well.
The Brewster Fish House is the best seafood Restaurant on the island, their numerous awards tell us so as well. It was full while we were there and people were waiting at the bar for a table. Rosie was ear wigging at a table next door that said ‘in season’ you line up in the carpark and wait over an hour for a table sometimes……nah, Rosie and The Operator can never be bothered waiting that long for there chow.
Back to the cranberries….these are cranberries, they grow on bushes and are one of the three indigenous fruits to the US, (FYI Blueberries and Concord Grapes) Massachusetts produces 80% of the worlds cranberry juice.
They grow on scrubby low bushes in bogs. When the Cranberries are ripe they flood the bogs, a floating harvester type agitator wriggles the bushes and the berries float to the top, booms then push all the berries to the edge of the bog and the berries are sucked up. You have seen the advert for the cranberries on TV and seen the big red pond full of them – TRUE! It was harvesting time in about 3 weeks, these dudes are weeding the bog. Rosie picked a cranberry and ate it….it was bitter and so not juicy, 20 min later it gave Rosie the squints…..or maybe it was the rich clam chowder….Rosie is blaming the cranberry.
Rosie was trying to take a photo of the bridge crossing the canal as we headed out of the Cape, we had driven into a residential area and the houses lined the canal edge.
A man in his garden hears us and said pop on through to his front garden and take a photo, we went up the side path and he had the most lovely garden ever and beautiful outlook over the canal. Rosie fired off a sneaky shot of his house too. Bye Bye Cape Code, you are a beautiful place with friendly people everywhere we went!
Welcome to Plymouth Harbour….yeah….not the best impression for weary Pilgrims with the tide out. It is a small town famous for the landing of the first pilgrim’s who founded the first European settlement in 1620.
The Mayflower landed with 102 English Pilgrims who were sick and starving from the sea voyage and were saved by gifts of food from the local Indian tribe…..the grateful pilgrims then staged a harvest festival for the natives which today is celebrated annually as Thanksgiving. They then proceeded to buy the land in exchange for blankets and muskets…..sound familiar……
This is the prestigious house where Plymouth Rock is situated. The rock has been moved over time and is not in the original location, the stone is said to be the first one that the Pilgrims stood on to disembark the rowboats that took them ashore from the Mayflower. Sounds exciting!
….Its a Rock Star! This plastered together rock is apparently about a quarter of the size it originally was. The rock that America was built on…is a tad disappointing….its about the same size as a 44 gallon drum…..
…..housed in a pit, within a stone pagoda and thousands a day stop and look at it. Ta Dah!
Rosie and The Operator have to go, it is starting to spit with rain, didnt come to much, its 3.30 pm and we have 45 mins to drive to get to our address in Boston, catch you tomorrow.
Rosie is a Middle Aged Kiwi who is about to embark on a twelve month adventure of a lifetime, travelling The World with her trusty, loyal sidekick The Operator. In search of adventure, culture, new taste experiences and world wide 'happy hours', Rosie's journals chronicle their travels and experiences.
Rosie had a lightbulb moment. Within that flash of clarity came the realisation that time was spinning out of control and passing her by. So, armed with the confidence, means, ability and a new found passion for life, Rosie and her trusty, loyal sidekick The Operator have devised THE PLAN.
ROSIE – Continually travels The World for the next 12 months.
THE OPERATOR – Works his 28 day roster and meets Rosie somewhere in The World to explore the area together for his 28 days off. Repeat x6.
ROSIE – Will then stay in one spot of the country they have been exploring for 28 days of local immersion whilst The Operator returns to work.
THE OPERATOR – Certainly has the shorter end of the stick xxx
Join me as I journal my middle aged musings on our day to day travels, culture, food and the quest for the ultimate world wide happy hour.