Cesky Krumlov is a jewel of a perfectly preserved medieval town that sits in the heartland of the Czech Republic.
The town is nestled around the serpentine meanderings of the Vltava River as it flows onward to Prague, reflecting the romantic translation of its name into English which means ‘Crooked Meadow’.
It is the kind of town that is so achingly beautiful you just do not know where to look next. Wandering around you feel like you are stepping back in time….and its so not hard to imagine being transported to another time and place.
Rosie and The Operator are staying here in Cesky Krumlov, this small town of 13,500 for five days. Rosie is so excited, this was the town she was supposed to stay a month in earlier in the year. The month had to be cancelled due to Rosie being hospitalised in Mexico. It has been a long time coming but we are finally here!
Yes, Rosie and The Operator are adding to the head count of the 2 million visitors that tour this UNESCO town every year making it the second most popular place to visit in the Czech Republic outside of Prague.
In the early days Cesky Krumlov as a town was well established by the 1300s and this original medieval face is primarily what you see today walking the streets.
The roads are cobblestone and the buildings have doors with low heavy lintels. The door locks, window sashes and shutters are just beautiful in their ancient handmade detail as are the different facade colours and building shapes.
How has this town remained so unchanged and true to its origins through the decades you may ask? Rosie will explain.
Three great wealthy families ruled this town consecutively down through the ages and the town wanted for nothing. From 1719 the Schwarzenberg Family were the wealthiest in the land and were the last great family to live in the Castle and administer the town. Their descendants lived continuously in the village right up until 1937 and the advent of WW2.
During the war the Nazis occupied the town claiming it as their own. The town during that time was very lucky not to sustain any bombing damage during the long conflict. In 1945 Cesky Krumlov was liberated by the US Army.
When the war ended, the current owner of Cesky Castle Dr Aldolph Schwarzenberg was forced into exile because of his German heritage. His vast estates and family wealth through out the Czech Republic, including Cesky Krumlov Castle, were seized and confiscated by the Czech Government.
With the advent of Communism that followed, Cesky Krumlov went into a state of hibernation and disrepair, the town was preserved in a time capsule as their was no money for maintenance and advancement.
In 1989 with the fall of Communism, private enterprise in the town flourished. You could buy a house here then for $1000 USD….now 30 odd years on these properties are being bought and sold today for $1.2 million USD!
The Inner Town is the site of the original trading settlement and revolves around the Main Square (Svornost Square). Standing tall in the middle of the Square is the plague column dating from 1762 which was built as a spire of thanksgiving to holy powers for having saved the town from bubonic devastation.
This square is just steps away from where we are staying and is also the site for the Cesky Krumlov Christmas Market. The market sells trinkets crafts, food and wine plus cookies, warm clothes and ceramics.
The stalls are so picturesque and beautifully decorated, plus the square has the most amazing vintage carousel for the youngster that fits right into the atmosphere perfectly.
In amongst the Christmas huts, housed in its own ‘barn’ is a life style nativity in a very, as Rosie calls it ‘Lego-esque’ style that all the kids love. A stage completes the setting and most evenings there were Christmas Carols on dusk performed by the local school kids for the crowds that gathered eating and drinking.
Visible from every quarter of the town is the famous Castle Tower that stands over 86 meters above the Vltava River.
Its is part of the castle that sits on a rock prominent looking over the town. Every section of the tower has been added on in a different century and the 4 giant bells have hung in the belfry for 400 years. This Castle complex comprises of 40 buildings and is the second biggest in the country after Prague Castle.
The paintings on the outside of the Castle and Tower were done in 1590 by an Italian Renaissance Master and they are quite amazing, and still so vibrant today….even after a wee touch up a couple of decades ago.
Entering the castle complex you cross the Bear Moat. Yes, Rosie said bear, the big brown bad breathed shaggy beast kind. Why have water in your moat when you can have real live bears prowling the perimeter? Bears have been living and roaming the moat trench since the 17th century when the wealthy Rosenberg family, who were the rulers of Cesky Krumlov first settled them there.
It is not a sinister thing, (although Rosie was holding her breath waiting for tales of enemies thrown in the pit), there are two bears on the Rosenberg family crest, hence, they thought it fitting to get themselves some real ones, just cause they could…..as you do.
Rosie and The Operator walked along what used to be the drawbridge and peeped over the sides, no bears to be seen. They do have quite a big area to live in and there are tunnels where they can walk from side to side under the drawbridge….not a nice lifestyle though for a modern bear who would rather be roaming the woods. Still, Rosie and The Operator went back everyday to try and see the bears….we never saw them once!. We were assured by the locals they were there, but we only ever saw an adventurous cat in their terrain sniffing at their food. Granted, It was cold and a little snowy….technically they should have been holed up in cosy hibernation….we thinks they must have been.
Alot of the castle complex and beautiful gardens were closed to visitors at this time of the year. This was the slight downside to travelling in winter….but hey, we weren’t that disappointed, there was still plenty of other things to see and do. What you don’t know is there, you wont miss.
Rosie and The Operator climbed to the top of the Bell Tower, there was one other hardy soul up there bracing themselves along with us against the polar wind that was blowing, sharp and cold. The view across the town was worth the freezing temperatures.
The Cloak Bridge was built in the 17th Century and spans a ravine whilst linking the upper and lower vast castle complex. It has three layers to it, the lower open area is for us commoners to walk upon. Whilst the upper two levels were covered levels were for the gentry so they could traverse in privacy, fully protected from the weather and common eyes.
Just off the bridge was one of the famous photo spots that looked down on Cesky Krumlov, it was always packed full of tourists. The posing and impatience of selfie taking photographers was quite amusing to watch. Rosie and The Operator muscled on in for their turn too.
Rosies pictures do not do this town justice, it is like the cover of a chocolate box and the stories, legends and hospitality we experienced were the icing on the cake. Most people visit here just for a day trip, and, during the day the town is bustling with tour groups. If you can, stay overnight in this town. After 3.00pm the busloads disappear, the locals come out and the magic unfolds when you have this town to yourself…it is magic.
