Stepping out after dark is like entering another world altogether in Tokyo, especially in the Shinjuku area where Rosie and The Operator are staying in a local apartment.
Shinjuku’s main drag is Yasakunidori – pubs, bars and eateries are stacked several stories high and the lights are getting brighter and the people traffic heavier. There is something going on everywhere and you just don’t know which way to look.
The night sky isn’t dark here and there is not one star to be seen. An other worldly, pale glow or eternal twilight is present due to the incredible amount of neon illumination from buildings, billboards and signage reflecting off the clouds.
We are out to explore the area after dark, it was only Tuesday night and it was buzzing! Closest to the West Exit of Shinjuku Station is Omoide-Yokocho, known in English as Memory Lane, or, as the locals laughingly call it ‘Piss Alley’.
A small street of bars and family run restaurants that have been there since after the war. The sun had just set and the sky was an awesome navy blue enhancing the lighting that had just come on.
Rosie was in pictorial heaven, the lanterns, the Japanese signage the compactness making everything so photo worthy.
You just kind of end up seamlessly oozing into the Kabukicho, Red Light District, going with the flow of people although the sign above you in the street does tell you…I think.
There are more groups of guys hanging around this area laughing and having a good time. Signage outside the clubs offer you any type of girl you could ever dream of although most of the pics are of very very young looking girls in cute pigtails and lace. There are alot of adrogenous, gender nuetral types hanging around outside bars where the boys are just as pretty as the girls and Rosie wasn’t entirely sure which was which….
The crazy Robot Restaurant adds another halo of brightness in the night sky around its building with its lightshow.
Bored looking dressed up girls waving signs entice you to buy tickets to the next show and a retro pair of robots allow you to have a pic taken on them or with them. Rosie was keen on going, but we never got around to it….to much else to see and do.
The Don Quijote store is a local icon and Rosie didnt take a pic as it was packed so tightly with people it was crazy. This was one of the original and first stores after the war to be open 24 hours to cater for the citys night workers. As well as packed with people it is packed to the gunnals with weird and wonderful everyday stuff only available in Japan.
Rosie and The Operator were heading for Golden Gai a rabbit warren of tiny skinny alleys and two storey wooden buildings filled with more than a hundred closet sized bars and eateries.
Each bar is unique and has a certain theme or vibe, some are quite temples of reflection and others have music and laughter spilling out. Most of the bars seat between 4 and 10 people, when I meant small, I meant small.
The upper story bars have treacherously steep stairs leading up into goodness knows what, not for the faint hearted to bust into one of these bars.
Some didn’t want tourists entering and said so on the door. Rosie wasn’t offended, she only wants to be in place where she is welcome so thanks for telling us outright.
The colours, grunginess and signage were fabulous, Rosie was loving taking pics, The Operator though was looking for a bar and a beer.
We chose a very vanilla bar where the bar maid spoke good English, it catered for a bigger crowd and there was karaoke playing. The business men in suits straight from work were lining up and signing up to sign.
There was no ceremony or stage, you sang at the bar and then passed the mic on. These guys were drinking up large and singing their hearts out…did I mention it was only Tuesday night?
Rosie and The Operator had a great time in this bar, most of the songs were in Japanese until this guy busted out Lionel Ritchie….Herrow….is it me your looking for….we had an awesome time. Did the Operator grace the bar with a song? He has a good singing voice you know….what happens in Tokyo, stays in Tokyo.
What a great night out in Tokyo! Tomorrow we have another jam packed day of sightseeing including Sumo training and a few more shrines.
